Collar and like article of apparel



Jan. 9, 1940. p, METZGER 2,186,387

comma AND LIKE An'rzcpm or mum Filed Jan. 29, 1-958 INVENTOR pa a/Z Mef'z er ATTORNEY ply isg ade ora gurved-woven'fabric, *i eiri' eat-mansillustrated conventionally i the accompanying drawing, in which:

a "a ""rtion er meet or: the Advent ll band ordinary might-h? n iabriesmi fi. k

Figure 1 is a plan view of a strip of thelining material from which thelining of thecollar is cut, as indicated by the dash lines, and.

Fig. 21s a view of a completed collar laid out flat, with one of theouter plies andthe lining ply partly broken away.

. Referring now to the drawing, I indicates a i strip of the liningmaterial. This material, in-

stead of being or the ordinary straight weave,

iswoven on a curve by what may be termed conical weaving", and is ofrelatively narrow a width, preferably only slightly wider than isrequired to cut one collar lining across the width 7' of the strip,..asindicated by the dash lines! in Figure 1. g The lining, however, may beof greater width so-that more than one collar lining may be cuttherefrom across the width thereof. However, for technical weavingreasons, the strip should preferably be kept to substantially the widthof one collar lining.

' The lining comprises a plurality of bands, preferably woven in onepiece. The top band 3 consists of warp threads] and filler threads 5 orcotton or other suitable material that will not u berenderedcementitioua in the subsequent treatr'itit us yotratmen yotnenzknown m .iismnannow from which the cellul mit ovigig .f

ticularlyto thecollar band portion llftlireoi,

just below .the fold so as-to minimize any tendency of the collar toturn outwardly or bulge attheiold undernormal conditions of wear. Thesucceedingband I2 'is the collar band portion of the lining and is ofthe same, or of substantially the same weave and construction as thecollar top portion or band 3 of the lining.-. This band it, as will beseen onreierring to 2, comes within the collar band portion H or thecompleted collar.

Belowthe band l2 there may be formed a band l3 from which the cellulosederivative threads are;omitted, so as to leave the outer plies free fromadhesion tothe lining along the lower edge of the collar bandportlon I lfor con- 'venience in attaching the collar to a shirt. 7 g The outer ortop and bottom plies I4 and I5 01 the collar are made of any suitablefabric woven -in the ordinary manner on aplain loom in contradistinctiontothe lining which, as above noted,

,is woven on a curve. The outer p'lies may be of 'shirting or othermaterial commonly used in the manufacture of collars. In the case wherethe collar is attached to the shirt,ethese outer plies may be made ofthe same material as the shirt.

In making the collar, the two outer plies and the lining ply are cut tothe proper shape. three plies are then assembled, with the lining ply onthe outside, and are stitched around on all the edges, except the bottomedge of the band portion, with a row of concealed stitches about fromthe edge. The whole assemblage is then turned inside out so as to bringthe lining on the inside between the outer plies. After the collar hasbeen turned, I may either close the bottom edge to form a detachedcollar, or I may leave said edge open in order that the collar may besubsequently attached to a shirt. Upon completion of the collar Iadhesively unite the plies together by any known method, depending forthe adhesion uponthe latently adhesive properties of the cellulosederivative threads in the lining.

My improved collar is of the kind generally known as a one piece collar,that is, one in which the fold-over portion or collar top 1 is formedintegral with the collar band portion II, as distinguished from theusual fold-over collar where the collar top and the collar band areformed as separate parts and afterwards secured together by stitching.

Various modilcations in the details herein described and shown may bemade within the spirit and scope of the invention.

This application is a continuation in part of an application filed by meon June 13, 1935, Serial No. 26,502.

What I claim is:

1. In a collar of the character described, the combination with one ormore straight-woven plies of fabric, of one or more piles of curvedwovenfabric containing a non-uniform distribution of cellulose derivativeyarns in the warp, said non-uniform distribution comprising the omissionof the cellulose derivative yarns in a narrow region to form a fold linezone and a concentration of cellulose derivative yarns in the bandportion of the collar adjacent to said fold line.

2. A collar of the fold over type in which the collar top and the collarband portions are integral with each other and are adhesively unitedexcept at the fold line, comprising outer'plies' of straight-wovenfabric, and a lining ply o! fabric yarns of cellulose derivative andyarns of The A collar top and collar band more lining piles of a curvedamass? cotton extending on a curve in the direction of the length of thecollar, the'cellulose derivative yarns being omitted in the region ofthe fold line and being of a closer weave immediately below the foldline than at other parts of the lining.

3. In a collar of the character described, the combination with one ormore outer plies of a straight woven fabric, of a lining ply of a curvedwoven fabric embodying latently adhesive warp yarns extending on a curvein the-direction of V the length of the collar, said latently adhesiveyarns being omitted along a narrow zone to form .an unadhered fold line.

the fold over type in which the portions are integral with each otherandare adhesively united except in the region of a predetermined curvedfold line, comprising outer plies of straight woven fabric, and a liningply of woven fabric embodying yarns of cellulose derivative and'yarns ofcotton woven on a curve the curvature of which extends in the directionof the length of the collar and corresponds substantially to thecurvature of the fold line, the cellulose derivative yarns being omittedin the region of the fold line.v

5. In a one piece collar comprising 'a collar top and band, thecombination with one or more outer plies of a' straight woven fabric, ofa lining ply of a curved woven fabric embodying latently adhesive warpyarnsextending on a curve in the direction lar, said iatently adhesiveyarns. extending throughout approximately the whole width or the collartop and band and being omitted along a narrow zone at the fold line toform an unad- -4. A collar of hered fold line.

of the length of the col- 6. In a one piece collar comprising a collartop and band, the combination outer plies of straight woven with one ormore fabric, of one or woven fabric containing a non-uniformdistributional! a cellulose derivative warp yarn extending on a curve inthe direction of the length of the collar, said cellulose derivativeyarn extending throughout approximately the whole width of the collartop and band and being omitted in a region to form afold line zone andconcentrated in'the band portion of .thecollar adjacent the fold line.

mop im'rzonn.

